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Fifty shades of Grey

As the story goes when John Singer Sargeant was painting outdoors in Paris with Manet he asked his friend for black to which Manet replied, “I have none, I never paint with black”.  Singer then replied, “ah well, then I cannot paint.”  True or not, it speaks to how we perceive shadow and shaded items.  There probably are fifty shades of grey and not attained just by gradations of white and black but infinite variations that may include, for example French Ultramarine, Hookers Green Deep and Cadmium red mixed of course with Raw Umber.  It is my guess that Sargeant could have done well enough with Raw umber.DSC03317

When one studies Rembrandt’s portraits we rarely see true black in the dark shadows of the face (the side opposite the source of light) but very deep shades of violet.  He seemed to retain black itself for the rich, velvet black sateen that men often wore in those days as capes and such.  Indeed, by using French Ultramarine which inherently has a violet cast, Raw Umber and Cadmium red deep, one can mix tones deep enough to emulate black.  These three pigments in fact lend a certain luminosity to shadows that black cannot match.

In landscapes where foliage in shadows becomes very deep and dark, adding in Hooker’s Green deep to the Raw Umber and to the Ultramarine Blue/Cadmium mix seems to bend the shadows tone nicely towards the other, lighter greens in the landscape.  Veridian I find is just too brilliant to use in shadow.  There is a new tube grey out now called Torrit Grey which I bought as a whim and I like how they have bent it towards a dark, green grey.  Adding white gives it a pleasant transition hue – a quicker way to achieve a grey/green tone.  This is by the way distinctly different than Payne’s grey which leans markedly towards dark blue.  When we think of Van Gogh’s work we think of very bright, rich pigments but his famous painting the Potato Eaters was somber in tone, extensively using deep shadows for effect and of a predominate green cast with gradations towards blue greys.  His winter landscapes I think are his best work where he carefully picked his way through subtle shades of greys within the snowy fields and shadows of trees, walls and figures along the road.

Of course every painter will eventually discover that various shades of grey carefully mixed and rendered adds an important ‘base’ to a painting – even one titled White Line by Kandinsky.  The stark bent, white line gains importance vibrating in front of the beautiful green, umber and blue greys that border the painting.  Some painters even prefer to paint the entire canvas grey before beginning.  This deep tone provides an entirely new reference than stark white when first starting a new painting.

michael wilson

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How to establish the correct TONE and HUE in a painting

Most artists, myself included are rarely able to establish the correct tone of a painting right from the beginning.  How to establish the correct tone and hue in a painting is of course vital to the effect of the piece.

Tone and hue in a painting is different than contrast.  It has to do with color saturation, how much white is added, how much umber or black, but also describes the actual color or hue for any given area of a painting.  Because a painting builds incrementally in relation to all the adjacent hues, creating the right tone and hue is nearly impossible from the beginning, unless you are Michelangelo reincarnated.  For narrative paintings that have background, figures, objects and foregrounds I try to apply the first paint application with careful and delicate brushstrokes so that it lays in flat and even.  As the painting develops and you can better understand what hue and tone is correct, you will not be hampered with halfhazard and distracting brushstrokes.

In oil painting all base coats are dry enough in a few days to go back and adjust them.  Usually in my case, they are typically deepened.  You will find as one area is deepened (less white added to the pigment), then adjacent tones will also require the same relative treatment.  In this way, little by little the painting develops into a unified whole where all colors are suffused with a pleasing balance, one to the other .

The point to stress is not struggle getting started by not getting the right tone of the painting.  Put down what you think it might be in your imagination.  Make your best mix and paint.  Remember that later tone changes are easy enough, just paint over the existing.  Sometimes a very pleasing effect is created when overlay tones are applied almost as a wash allowing the original tone under the wash to come through.  This kind of painting requires patience and time.  The result however will certainly pay off creating the tonal effect you were after.DSC03309

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Techniques in oil painting abstracts

This would be my third article in describing specifically the technique of ‘drag’ painting.  This is essentially the same technique that Gerhard Richter explored though on a much larger scale.  Techniques in oil painting abstracts vary considerably.DSC02979

As I have mentioned before I find that canvas is not suitable…my own process uses 1/2″ plyboard which I prime and sand at least twice and sometimes three times to create a very smooth surface.  Even with all that priming the patterns of the ply still show through which I incorporate and use in the painting to good effect.  The attraction in the drag painting process is the allowance for accidental effects – when the pigment is placed on one side and then dragged with pressure all across the length of the board, it is impossible to know what will actually occur.  Other pigments which are also dragged above and below mix and co-mingle with the others and these create even new colorations.

In more recent works I have begun to use a smaller squeege and in sections completely drag through to the patterned ply to reveal the grain.  The resultant color leaves an interesting ‘stained’ effect and by doing this all over the board an overall design is created.  The intention is to create a harmony of pattern across the entire piece.

Also more recently,  after the drag painting is complete I will come back and study the work to ascertain just what patterns and what feelings seem to be emerging.  Then I will add by brush or again by squeege in more subtle strokes certain accents that play up those patterns and feelings.  There is the necessity of being sensitive to the painting, discovering what is trying to come out and be manifested.  Sometimes only light touches are required and sometimes more bold accents are added.  I have even begun to experiment with applying tissue paper by tearing and cutting strips and then varnishing them selectively in sections.  This creates in areas translucent and special reflective colorization.  For example a bright yellow tissue paper over a dark blue will create a striking green.  This kind of semi-accidental effect plays well with the underlying drag painting.  The painting in the example is done this way.

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Concept Sketch for your next Abstract Painting

Use a concept sketch for your next abstract painting.06.jpg
I personally do believe that a painting can and will evolve by its own volition. An artist through practice, will develop a sensitivity to the development of the painting. Through this sensitivity various forms, impressions and color combinations will become apparent. Responding to these and allowing them to manifest is a very big part of the magic of abstract painting.
You will find it is sometimes necessary to develop a concept sketch for a painting. An idea might come to you at a time when you are away from the studio. Write down something briefly so it is not lost. It can be frustrating to experience an image or feeling come – something that seems important – and then it vanishes. This initial quick sketch can be enhanced later on paper and then when you have time, this sketch can be transferred to the canvas with pencil. I use colored pencil for this. A conte crayon also works well.
If the abstract piece is geometric in nature your sketch will be more considered and more thoughtfully rendered. If the abstract in mind is more freeform, then your sketch on the canvas will of course be very brief.
Take some time to now study the drawing on the canvas. Ask yourself what it is your are trying to say or express. Is there a feeling you are after? What colors will work best? Are the edges going to be soft and blended or hard-edged? Try to develop the painting in your mind, at least initially.
Now begin…perhaps you will want to paint the most dominant form first. Perhaps you are attracted to a certain color. Keep in mind the colors that will be placed next to each other and how they will be blended to each other. The important thing is that you have begun. You are painting because after all, if we are artists we must paint. Even when we are not sure of what we are after, we must begin to paint. The concept sketch has helped me numerous times to overcome inertia and to get started. Often the sketch is so simple but the painting will often miraculously take on a life of its own…it begins to express itself. One form seems to lead to another form and one placed color then opens up an opportunity for the next. Balance can be achieved through color and through form and these two elements you will find, also become manifest.